The Blue Lagoon and that whole “naked showering” thing.

The Blue Lagoon is a vast geothermal pool and spa outside of Reykjavik. Despite its wild appearance, it is not natural phenomenon. It’s man-made, the by-product of the nearby Svartsengi power station (the lagoon is made up of the station’s surplus water). But don’t let that put you off. The pool is situated in the middle of a lava field, so the effect is pretty striking, even if it isn’t “natural.” I’m guessing most people haven’t seen anything quite like it. I certainly hadn’t.

First sight of the lagoon, as you approach the entrance. 

The water, which hovers around a bliss-inducing 100 degrees, is made up of silica, algae, and various minerals, and has a bluish sheen. According to the official website, it’s the sunlight that makes it look blue, the water is actually a cloudy white, and underwater, totally opaque (so don’t bother with goggles or underwater cameras).

The mineral-rich water is supposedly good at soothing skin issues like psoriasis, but it’s also absolute hell on your hair. The changing rooms are equipped with conditioner and signs encourage visitors condition their hair both before and after getting in. Some people suggest just avoiding getting your hair wet if at all possible. I had to pile mine on top of my head, a la Pebbles Flintstone (which is why there are no photos of me in the lagoon itself), but my hair survived.

Anyway, the Blue Lagoon is one of Iceland’s major attractions. And it is certainly more than a little touristy. Swimming culture is huge in Iceland, but the Blue Lagoon is too costly for locals to frequent. In fact, the awesome “I Heart Reykjavik” blog suggests going to one of the other, less expensive pools used by actual Icelanders. I think this is excellent advice for long-term visitors or those who plan on swimming often. But since I was more interested in the overall experience, I opted to pay the steep ticket price, and I’m glad that I did.

One of the things about the Blue Lagoon that gets a lot of attention (at least from North Americans) is the requirement that all visitors shower–sans bathing suit–before entering the pool, and again before leaving. They aren’t kidding around. There are employees in the (sex-segregated) changing rooms to, politely but firmly, make sure you comply. Alas, the showers aren’t designed for privacy.

While it wasn’t going to stop me from going, I admit I was a little uncomfortable, despite knowing that my unease was somewhat ridiculous. I understand that a) Nordic culture is much more relaxed about nudity than we are in the U.S.; b) “privacy” and “modesty” are social constructs and only have meaning because we give them meaning; and c) body image issues were at the root of my anxiety and I am just too damn old for that.

But a lifetime of cultural norms and media messages are hard to shake. Showering on the way in, I made an effort at discretion, but the place just isn’t built for it. There are a few shower stalls with doors, but the stalls are small and the doors have no hooks for robes or towels, so you have to either keep the door ajar or get your towel/robe soaked. In the end, I showered both times with the door half open, and it was no big deal. Everybody is naked and nobody is looking.

(I should add the Blue Lagoon’s website currently states that “private shower cubicles are available” in both the men’s and women’s changing rooms. As I said, these were fairly few and not very practical, but the Blue Lagoon is undergoing renovations, so the situation may be different now.)

But there is a considerable side benefit to all this stress: the shower dread distracts from the bathing suit dread. After the locker room experience, one feels positively clothed in just a bathing suit. Seriously, my only qualm in walking to and from the pool was that, even in June, it was a bit chilly (luckily it’s a short walk).

The main building, which houses the changing rooms, from the pool.

One you’re in the water, you just hang out. It isn’t deep enough for real swimming (it’s 3-4 feet deep in most places and up to 5 in others). There are really only two things to “do,” since doing nothing is the whole point. One is to cover your face, shoulders, etc., with the silica mud they keep in pots around the pool–again, it’s supposedly good for your skin.

These “rocks” are artfully strewn throughout the pool. Be careful near them. They are very slippery and just sharp enough in some places to catch you, unpleasantly, unawares.

The other thing is to get drinks from the pool-side bar (you wade right up to it). When you pay your admission, you’re issued a little plastic bracelet. This controls your locker and is linked to your credit card, so you don’t have to bring a wallet with you to the pool. There is a three-drink limit, but I think that only applies to alcohol (this is a good thing. Aside from avoiding public drunkenness, three alcoholic drinks in Iceland is practically a car payment. I’m exaggerating, but only slightly). I opted for two banana-and-skyr smoothies, which were delightful. So delightful, in fact, that later on, after I was dressed and waiting for the bus, I bought another for the road.

As beautiful as the pool is, I actually found the outdoor areas even more striking. There’s a pathway of sorts around the building, some of it cut into the lava, and the views are amazing.

If you book online, basic, high season (June—August) admission is 6,100 ISK (about 54 US dollars). There are also “comfort,” “premium,” and “luxury,” tickets, which come with various amenities. I booked the premium package, but if you’re only interested in the pool and not in any of the massage or beauty treatments, I would opt for “Comfort.” The “premium” included a drink of my choice (seriously, try those smoothies), a fluffy towel and bathrobe, “slippers” (which are yours to keep, but they’re just flip flops), a small sample package of some of their skincare products, and a reservation at the Blue Lagoon’s swanky Lava restaurant (which I didn’t use). Unless you’re planning on going back and forth between the pool, café, or spa, the bathrobe and slippers aren’t necessary. “Comfort” includes the drink and the towel, as well as algae and silica masks. Everything else you can add on individually, if you wish.

Final verdict? There is no doubt that the Blue Lagoon is pricey and not frequented by typical Icelanders. In fact, there is some antipathy toward in it the broader Icelandic tourist economy. If saving money or having a more local experience is your priority, then you can skip it without a qualm. 

Waiting for the bus back to Reykjavik. Possibly my worst selfie ever, but don’t I look relaxed?

But, if you’re looking to treat yourself, and at the same time see a beautiful and unusual place, then I absolutely recommend it. The water is wonderful and the surroundings are just stunning. Also, did I mention the banana smoothies?

Have you been to the Blue Lagoon? Would you consider going?